How to assemble and install Sports & Classics Mocal spin-on oil filter conversion kit for your MGC, MGC-GT. See more about this conversion kit >
Why Dri Plugs? If your going to store your vehicle long term or just over the winter these plugs can give you added protection against moisture and corrosion in the cylinder walls. These plugs fit all 14mm spark plug holes which are extremely common in classic cars and boats. Dri plugs are reusable and can be dried out during the off season. They are shaped like spark plugs and serve to seal the cylinder chamber and dry it of moisture. It will help eliminate moisture accumulation caused by an open valve. The top of the dri plug can accommodate the spark plug wire.
As you might be storing your fine automobile for the winter months, make sure your engine is safe from rust and corrosion. DRI PLUGS are transparent, moisture and gasoline
resistant containers that hold a dehydrating agent capable of absorbing water equal to more than 45% its own weight. They are blue when dry and pink when completely saturated. Each DRI PLUG comes with a color chart to determine the humidity of an area at a glance. DRI PLUGS are mostly used in the preparation auto engine combustion chambers, which have long been vulnerable. DRI PLUGS are shaped like spark plugs and serve the dual purpose of sealing and dehydrating the chambers.
The rallye seat we are using here are mounted on an aluminum frame which has a plywood subbase that serves as an anchor for the vinyl. Before drilling, we recommend setting the seats in the desired location. You will want to mark the area on the floor pan. The new tracks should be located parallel to each other. Often you can use the location of the old tracks as a guide. It maybe necessary to drill new holes to mount the tracks to the vehicle floor.[/one_half]
- Electric Drill
- 3/32″ Metal Drill Bit
- 3/4″ Wood Drill Bit
- 1/4″ Metal Drill Bit
1) With the seat in the upright position, lift and dislodge the seat bottom from it’s setting in the seat. It will lift forward anchored by a piece of vinyl located in the front portion of the seat.
2) With the seat bottom now dislodged, invert the seat and lay it on a suitable work table.
3) As the seat assembly is now upside down, gently pull back the felt bottom that is covering the seat base. This can be easily re-glue after drilling the holes.
4) With the aluminum base exposed, place the seat tracks onto the base for the purpose of marking the position of the seat track studs that will affix the track assembly to the seat.
5) Now that the seat tracks studs are marked on the aluminum, remove the track and prepare for the first drilling stage. These holes are going to be drilled using the 3/32″ metal drill bit. Drill the corresponding holes completely through the base and the plywood subbase.
6) With all holes drilled, re-position seat in the upright on your work table. Keep the seat bottom dislodged. The plywood subbase is now visible with the drilled holes accomplished in step 5 apparent.
7) You will now use the 3/4″ wood drill bit. Place the locating center of the wood bit into the holes drilled in the previous step. Drill through the plywood subbase only. This will provide a hole suitable for the nut that will thread onto the seat track stud. Perform this for all seat track stud locations.
You will now be able to insert the seat track studs into the drilled holes and tighten into place.
That’s it! You’re set and ready to be installed in the car!
If you recently purchased our air cleaners, you may want a few tips! For mounting an air cleaner with threaded mounting holes on a threaded carburetor mounting flange here’s all you need to know.
Installing your air cleaners:
- Remove the cleaner cover.
- Drill the threads out of the mounting holes in the air cleaner rear plate, using an electric drill quipped with a metal-drilling bit.
- Insert bolts through these holes, and screw them into the mounting flange.
- Replace the air cleaner cover.
Change your gas!
Ethanol fuel begins to breakdown. This occurs as ethanol and other key ingredients evaporate. This can cause damage if you run your engine. namely detonation, and cylinder wash down due to impurities that occur due to phase separation.
Ethanol will allow moisture (humidity) from the air to mix with the fuel in your car’s tank and carburetor float bowls – beware! If left, water will collect and will cause corrosion.
We have found you need to be cautious of any additives you might use. Change your gas to be safe. A lot of additives contain alcohol. Adding more alcohol to ethanol blend fuels can cause problems. Ask an S&C expert 203.348-2226. Always use Cam Shield – Always!
- Remove the intake manifold and carbs
- Remove the exhaust manifolds and disconnect the down pipes from the muffler and remove.
- Place rear half of header in approximate position in the engine conpartment, inserting from the top, but DO NOT BOLT TO HEAD.
- Place the front half of the header in the car and bolt to head. The removable piece should be installed last. Use the furnished clamp to join the tubes together. A stud must be used on the extreme right flange hole which is somewhat covered by the header tube at that point. Bolts are okay on all the other holes.
- Put the rear half of the header in place and check to see if there is sufficient clearance for the throttle linkage. On some models there may be a slight interference and if so it will not affect performance if the header tube is dented for clearance. Bolt the rear half in place.
- The center tubes on the headers are designed using bends of such radius for the best possible gas flow. For this reason a slight amount of material must be ground away from the bottom of the intake manifold where it touches the tubes. After the material is removed, the intake manifold may be bolted in place.